(Placa Crist Rei)Happy Holidays to all!
We wish you a very merry Christmas (Bon Nadal) and a happy New Year.
May 2008 bring harmony to the world and all the best to you and your loved ones....
Dilara, Yunus, Ayse and Haluk
Gandia, Spain
CHRISTMAS (NADAL in Valenciano) IN GANDIA
All the Christmas songs, which we have loaded from the itunes, are making me nostalgic. For Christmas our family will reunite in Oslo, Norway at our extended family Helleland's - hehehe, you thought we would miss the white Christmas; not until the global warming melts the North Pole!! We will be back here to celebrate New Year's Eve in Spanish style - with cava and grapes.
Here we are in Gandia witnessing a holiday season in a very different culture. Surprisingly though, so far other than the sights of some unusual sweets and of course the absence of our friends, I cannot say much is different than back home. The spirit is the same: Joy to the World!
Apartments, houses and shops are all decorated with similar Christmas ornaments and lights as we have in US. Thanks to China and other far-east Asian countries, now the world enjoys a global Christmas celebration!
(the inflated Santa, in all sizes, climbing the chimney - balconies in Gandia - is the new in thing here this Christmas)
(And of course, the fake poinsettias decorate the store entrances - and note the siesta hour Christmas shopping!!!)Buying frenzy is at its height; almost at a revolting degree - no escape from consumerism... Hardly anyone seems to know what Christmas really is; if the name were to be changed to something else, people would continue with the same business so why wait for this particular day? - maybe for the spirit of giving!
As soon as October ended, the Christmas activities slowly began to build up. Around the Thanksgiving time, some of the stores were being decorated for Christmas and advertising the Christmas sales. While I was shopping for my Thanksgiving dinner ingredients, Carrefour was already playing the Christmas songs - en Ingles.
Carrefour
La Vital, our Shopping Mall and grand sponsor of our swim team
La Vital, our Shopping Mall and grand sponsor of our swim teamWithin the last couple of weeks, the preparations have reached their climax: almost all the stores are decorated,
Christmas tree in the La Vital
Christmas tree in the La Vitalhomes display Christmas lights, trees and inflated Santa figures,
(Modest Christmas decorations at our apartment) 
Carrer Major
Placa Escola Ria
I also noticed occasional scenes of nativity in some restaurants and stores – obviously no one takes any offense, yet!
Interestingly, the Poinsettias are planted in the public flowerbeds; our turnabout has a display of them and looks beautiful. The climate must be just right for them to stay vibrantly red throughout.
(Flowerbed in Plaza de Ayuntamiento)
(Flowerbed at the Plaza Escala Ria - poinsettias in harmony with palm trees!)
(Ayuntamiento)
(Fountain at the Passeig de les Germanies)
Additionally, I am told that if we are lucky, we may observe a disappearing tradition “aguinaldo,” when the kids sing Christmas carols in the neighborhoods. I hope the kids in our apartment complex will do it...Here is the Spanish traditional sequence of events around the Christmas and New Year’s Day Holidays:
December 8th – Immaculada (Feast of the Immaculate Conception). This is a public holiday that marks the commencement of the religious Christmas celebrations. All we noticed here was another day off from school and stores were closed. I heard that cities like Seville have a richer tradition around this day than other places.
December 21st - The celebration of Hogueras (bonfires). This is the winter solstice (shortest day). Apparently, celebrations involve people jumping through fires to protect themselves against illness and only few cities (including Granada) celebrate this holiday with fire jumping.
December 22nd – On this day, two important things happen: students begin their winter vacation and the winning numbers of the famous Spanish Christmas Lottery is announced.
This last one must be the biggest event of the season for every day in the news, TV explains or announces something related to it. The people form lines at the front of ONCE kiosks (lottery stands) on the streets. Here is an excerpt from http://www.escuelai.com/spanish_magazine/christmas_spain.html explaining the history and importance of this lottery:
“This lottery, by far the biggest in Spain, is a tradition practiced by many people who long to win the grand prize, which would make them instantly rich. This tradition is deeply embedded in these holidays, dating back to 1763, when Carlos III initiated it. Since then, not one year has passed without it, and it now is the symbolic moment in which Spaniards begin to celebrate the Christmas holidays.”
On the December 22nd, apparently everywhere in Spain people get glued on their TV screens or radios (maybe even on the internet nowadays) for several hours as the Christmas lottery numbers are announced. I remember a similar tradition in Turkey for the New Year’s Eve lottery, when we would stay up till midnight to check the numbers. However, the main reason to wait up was not the excitement of lottery tickets but the entertainment that was built around it. Everyone I know here buys these lottery tickets in the hope of winning El Gordo (the fat one); even the swim team has a person in charge of collecting the money and getting the tickets – I think this has something to do with buying large sums.
This one is said to be the biggest and riches lottery in the world with a draw of 3 billion euros. This year’s el Gordo cash payout supposed to be 2.20 billion euros with 555 million for the first prize. Apparently, in addition to the three big prizes, there are thousands of smaller prizes. The total number of winning tickets is 13,334 and the odds of winning is 1 in 6 – so lots of people will win something.
I recently received an e-mail informing me that I won the lottery! Without paying further attention to the content, I deleted the mail. When I was searching some info about this lottery, I came across warnings from Spanish and US governments about the scam built around Spanish lottery. Apparently, some con-artists were targeting unsuspecting victims around the world especially in countries on the American continent and in the south-west of Asia and the Pacific. The scam is as usual asking advance-fee to clear taxes and fees to allow you claim your prize - voila! easy come, easy go, ey?.
December 24th - Nochebuena (Goodnight in Spanish). Apparently, two things traditionally happen on this evening: eating a huge meal and going to the Christmas mass. Although the latter one is in the midst of disappearing, the former continues to be followed feverishly. This is the most important family gathering of the year – like the Thanksgiving in USA. Earlier in the evening, people often meet with their friends (may mean around 8 and 9 pm!) for a few drinks then go back home for dinner with the family. Most bars and restaurants close in the evening.
The traditional Christmas dinner may start with prawn followed by roast lamb and closed off with a typically Christmas sweet called turrón,
(turron boxes at Carrefour)which is a nougat made of toasted almonds (TJ Maxx sells them, too) – my friend Susan collected a good number of packages of these when we were shopping at the Carrefour.
The menu apparently varies according to the regions in Spain.
(My favorite deli store: Salazones San Nicolas, and very nice people; note the jamon Iberico hanging in the back)
The menu apparently varies according to the regions in Spain.
(My favorite deli store: Salazones San Nicolas, and very nice people; note the jamon Iberico hanging in the back)Because the deserts are my favorite parts of holidays, I pay close attention to what the pastry shops offer. They have many variety of sweets appeared since the beginning of the celebrations but most of them are creamy or moussey, which is not appealing to my palate. One kind that I like is made from almonds, flour and sugar - well, maybe lard, too. It maybe called Polvorones (short bread) or Mantecados (crumble cakes). They come in many different favors in addition to traditional almond and anise. I only tried one and I am not sure which of these two it was. From the descriptions, I really can't tell the difference and if anyone knows, please feel free to comment and enlighten me.
The most curious is the marzipans; they have every imaginable variety including some fruit flavored jelly filled ones that I had never seen before.
I am not sure if this sweet has always been a tradition here or it arrived with the Germans.The most curious is the marzipans; they have every imaginable variety including some fruit flavored jelly filled ones that I had never seen before.
Of course, the usual sight of panetoni boxes also appear on the shelves of the stores like Carrefour and deli shops (as in TJ Maxx's), but not as much of patisseries.
Tano, one of my favorite pastry shops, Window decorations above and sweets below
December 25th – Christmas Day. Obviously opening presents on the Christmas Day is not customary here – although this may be changing as well. Children may get a small gift on Nochebuena or this morning, but the day for presents is the January 6th, Epiphany. This is why gift selling continues passed Christmas. Christmas Day is a national holiday; hence, the shops are closed. On the Christmas Day, the families commonly gather for a large meal at lunchtime.
28th December - The day of Santos Inocentes (Holy Innocents). Apparently an exclusively Spanish holiday, it is the equivalent of April Fools' Day, not in terms of context but in the sense how it is celebrated.
This day commemorates the murder of children in Bethlehem and its vicinity by Herod in Judea in quest of eliminating Jesus. Herod was the king of Judea from 37 B.C until 4 A.D. According to the New Testament (Matthew Ch2. Massacre of the Innocents), upon hearing the birth of the new king of the Jews, Herod asks Magi, from the east, to find Jesus so he could worship him. After finding Jesus, Magi receives a warning from God in a dream about the Herod's intentions and he leaves his country without telling Herod about Jesus' whereabouts. At the same time, Joseph, in his dream, also receives a message from God to flee to Egypt. When Herod learns Magi's betrayal, he orders for all the male children age of two and below to be massacred. Jesus escapes the doom because Joseph keeps his family in Egypt until Herod's death.
Despite this horrific background, the customs practiced on this day are very cheerful and fun. Apparently on this day, not only friends and acquaintances play pranks on each other, but even the national media and municipal governments' get involved! The media often includes an absurd story in their broadcasts and local governments stage deceitful practical jokes on their citizens. I believe we will be playing the gullibles since we won’t have a good command of Spanish to understand the Spanish jokes!
December 31st – NocheVieja (New Year's Eve). For the fun-loving Spaniards, this is a big party night as you can imagine. By midnight, people apparently fill the plazas around the town and on the stroke of midnight by the church bells, they eat 12 grapes (maybe along with consuming lots of cava), one on each stroke of the clock to bring good luck in the New Year – in Turkey we change into a brand new red underwear (don’t ask me why; at least eating grapes makes sense for they are healthy and connoted with wine, which makes you jolly and healthy!).
(Now I know the meaning of the grape themed street lights; note the number of grapes on the stalk!)
And for that you need to dress up, vale! Display of fine party clothing at Mango above and Zara below.
Instead of Santa, the boys and girls in Spain write their letters to the Three Kings or to their favorite King: Melchor, Gaspar or Baltasar telling how they had behaved during the year and asking for what they want.
Because the Kings travel from the East by camel, it takes a long time to get to Spain; hence, they arrive later than Christmas Day! This may be designed to be more realistic or an excuse to continue the celebrations as long as they can... I think the second one is more plausible! On the January 5th, the Kings visit all the cities and villages where a parade is held, and they hear the kids' requests. Our swim team will go as a group again as they did for the October Fiesta. (I love these team building efforts; they go to the movies, excursions, hikes and other fun activities all together.)
At night before going to bed, the kids put their shoes (as we hang stockings) in front of the door so that the Kings will know how many children live there. Just like we leave milk and cookies for Santa and carrots for the reindeers, the kids here put out something to eat and drink for the Kings, and water and grass for their camels.
On the morning of the 6th, the kids find their presents inside and outside the shoes instead of under the Christmas tree. Just like back home, hardly any kid here gets coal although you can purchase big chunks at the candy stores! Of course, the Spanish parents are also less hungry and thirsty the next day of the Kings' arrival - I think we are getting the gist of this!!!
For breakfast or lunch on the January 6th, the families traditionally have the desert Rosca de los Reyes, a large ring shaped cake (supposedly tastes similar to hot cross buns) and decorated with candied fruits with a surprise hidden inside. The person who finds the surprise is crowned as the king or queen of the house for the remainder of the day.
I borrowed this picture from idealspain.com because these breads are not sold in the stores, yet.CHRISTMAS - IN VALENCIA
Avenue Marques de Sotelo View from the Train Station
Santa Corner at the Estacion del Norte
L'Hemisferic (Science Museum)
Commercial Center
A Christmas without Starbucks!!!! not if we can't help it...Yes, finally we found it and loving it.... anything American will do!
Cafe de Navidad; Vale!
Who are those two American geeks?
Flowers at the Plaza del Ayuntamiento
Christmas tree at the Plaza del AyuntamientoNotice the Palm trees in the back!
Well, we miss home and our friends, but we are also building great new memories so in the end it is all worth it. Filled with the joyous spirit of the season, we are ending 2007 happy, healthy and a bit more enlightened. I personally feel blessed for continuing to have marvelous fortunes such as great kids, wonderful husband, good health and all these incredible opportunities. Content with all I have, what more is there to ask for!
Muchos de amor a todos!
Ayse
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